If you’ve been reading about how attic fans supposedly suck air through your ceiling and all of your air-conditioning with it. Well here’s the truth. If you have a gap in your ceiling some air will go through it. So before you turn on your heater, your air-conditioner, and your humidifier and definitely before you add any more insulation you should seal all those gaps up. In the mean time just be thankful for the extra oxygen you’ll be breathing.
What I’m not seeing anyone talk about is oxygen. These self-appointed experts who have never been in an attic, let alone 15,000 attics like I have, are obsessing on energy. So much so that life-giving oxygen is flatly ignored. Let’s be reasonable, you need fresh air or your going to die. Seal up your house and stay inside and you’ll bedead in less than a week. I sleep with my window open year-round so I won’t die.
If you read the instructions that come with all attic fans they say that you have to install intake vents to make sure that there is enough intake “make up” air coming in from the outside. Sadly, this just sounds boring and some installers skip this step. Intake vents whether in the soffits, gable walls, or roofs lower the suction in the attic so if some air is leaking through it’ll only be a very little, just enough to keep us all alive. Open a window a little and you’ll know that the air coming into your house is not coming from the crawl space or the chimney.
Here’s a fact that all these self-appointed experts obviously have never considered; Fact: There is no shortage of energy in the universe. So while my days are numbered, energy will always be here until God rolls up our reality like a scroll. So to me the shortage is in the days of my life, I sleep with the window open so I will live longer and not be like the poor government workers working in government buildings so air-tight they literally get sick.
So get 5 to 10 degrees cooler upstairs by getting rid of the 150 degree attic air that heats your insulation, your rafters, your joists, your shingles and by later in the day backs up and starts to heat you!
Grant Troyer from Vancouver just bought a Jet Fan and proudly proclaims that “Quality is NOT the same as Price” … and something about doing it right the first time!
Grant liked that it is American made which supports American workers and the fact that he won’t have to go up and mess with his attic fan anymore.
We can’t agree more: when you compare Quality verses Price the Jet Fan Attic Fan’s thick aluminum housing will last forever and never rust and the quiet and efficient motor will last ten years even if you never oil it and you can oil it if you want and it’s easily replaced. Shoot, if you actually oil it, the motor will last 30 years. The snap action thermostat positively turns the attic fan on and off at appropriate times and has a firestat with it so if there’s ever a fire in your house the fan will shut off when it senses 180 degrees temperature which would happen quickly in a fire situation. So save time and aggravation and labor costs for having to replace your cheap attic fan over and over.
Saving heat is usually suggested in simple ways: sealing around windows, doors, and the attic access; insulating the attic and foundation walls as possible.
Heat moves three ways: by conduction, convection and radiation. But there’s another way you are losing heat that contractors don’t like to talk about because it’s harder to fix. Water vapor.
It takes heat to make water evaporate and this latent heat is lost when vapor escapes. So by stopping the vapor, you keep the heat. So before you insulate your attic make sure gaps in your ceiling through light fixtures or around electircal conduit are sealed up first.
Vapor cannot be stopped by fiberglass bats or any kind of loose fill insulation. Insulation slows the movement of heat but does very little to slow water vapor that is actually lighter than air and is constantly pushing up rising into your attic through gaps and through the insulation.
Honestly the building industry has not taken this very seriously and it’s time they did. Vapor not only takes heat with it, but when it gets to the cold side of the insulation it can condense and cause mold and rot.
Seal first, then insulate.
For answers to your home questions call:
Jeff Tideman, “Jet Fan Man” for a FREE Consultation.
Take a quick look in your attic and you may find attic frost on the wood of your roof, especially on the north side where it’s colder. Humidity indoors is essential in the winter. For example, your house will feel warmer when the humidity is higher. In addition, you may find relief from a dry scratchy throat or avoid a common cold by having the right amount of humidity in the air of your home. Even your wood floors and furniture need humidity to prevent cracking.
Unfortunately, there is a hidden danger when the humidity is too high. Humidity or invisible water in gas form is lighter than air so it’s always trying to rise and get into your attic space. That’s why I have been jumping up and down about sealing your ceiling. I don’t know if that’s why they call them ceilings but here is pictures of what I’m talking about.That’s where humidity can start to cause a problem and why attic ventilation is so important. During the winter, the attic should be cold and ventilated for several reasons. If your attic is warmer than outside air, ice dams and leaking may occur. In addition, dangerous and damaging mold may grow as a result of ice dams and leaks in the attic or water vapor condensing forming wetness and attic frost. This may eventually cause structural damage to your home’s framing and feed dangerous mold.
Tip: Don’t insulate or add more insulation until you stop up these gaps. Always add more ventilation with insulation because now your attic will be colder that ever and the same amount of rising water-vapor that may not have been a problem before can now condense and form frost. Added ventilation will keep your attic dryer by letting vapor escape. Sealing gaps will stop the source of the attic vapor. Bath fans that blow into the attic should be vented out through the roof using 4 inch round insulated duct and a roof damper with a screen and flashing so all that hot humid air goes up and out and away from your house. (Not out through the soffit vents because the hot humid air just rises back up into the attic even if through other vents).
Attic Fan with humidistat helps, but there’s other problems that need attention first. I sell humidistats for attic fans but, don’t run out and buy a humidistat (even from me) until you have talked to me first.
Jeff Tideman,“Jet Fan Man”. FREE Consultation.
Phone 630-834-9165 AtticFans.com
The metal is 3 times thicker so wind won’t blow it apart.
All of the exposed bolts are stainless steel so they also will never rust.
The screen is heaviest gauge expanded metal the stronger than any other attic fan screen
while still allowing air to pass easily thru.
The flashing or metal plate that fits into the roofs shingles in wider so even in strong
wind water cannot be blown up under the flashing into your attic.
The motor has a capacitor so it only uses extra power when the motor starts not the entire
time the fan runs like cheap motors.
The motor is American made and precision made so it’s quieter and doesn’t make the
awful grinding /humming noise the cheap motors make and reverberates into your homes
framing while you are trying to sleep. This is the main difference that makes the Jet Fan Attic Fan better
The motor will last 10 years or more even if you never oil it.
You can oil the motor if you want.
The only fan made with an option for an automatic oiler that could extend motor life to
30 years or more without maintenance.
The motor can be replaced from inside or from the roof whichever is easier.
The cable that goes from the motor to the thermostat is longer (24″) so you have more
reach and more options when installing it and hooking up the power.
The thermostat is a precision snap action automate switch that positively snaps to on and
off positions in response to temperature in the attic. It doesn’t waver on and off and it’s
more accurate so the installer can set it and you can forget about it.
The higher quality available Jet Fan humidistat is optional so you don’t have to buy it if
your attic doesn’t need it. Fans will run on for days during high humidity outside.
The thermostat has a fire stat with it so if there’s ever a fire in your house the fan won’t
come on and make matters worse like the cheap fans would.
The motors twice as efficient as other motors and reliably moves more air per watt than
any other fan. Uses ½ the energy of some other attic fans.
The air flow of the fan has been tested by an independent laboratory so the stated air
flows of the Jet Fans are known and not just wishful thinking or exaggerated claims.
The pro-rated written warranty insures that you’ll get your money’s worth on a fan that
will still be there, and still be worth installing a new motor in, 50 years from now.
When you buy a Jet Fan you’re keeping Americans working because it’s 100% American
You can prime and paint the aluminum housing and because it’s aluminum it won’t start
rusting and make the paint flake off.
The fans propeller type blade is made of heavier metal including a cast hub, heavy steel
will roots and thick aluminum wings so it will not crack like the cheap fans that have a
blade stamped out of a single piece of thin metal. Jet Fan Attic Fan is better because the moving parts are stronger so they don’t break.