How to Have a Cool Quiet Bedroom
Even on Hot Nights With an Attic Fan
Take control with an attic fan – in two hours you can get rid of hot rooms upstairs for good. Do you have these symptoms?
- Still Hot Even With Your Air Conditioner Blasting?
- Sweating Even with Thermostat Turned Way Down?
- Can’t Sleep While Your Air Conditioner Keeps Burning Your Hard-Earned Cash?
You’re hot and sweaty in your upstairs bedrooms; the air-conditioned is running and running but you’re still hot. You might as well be burning $100.00 bills in your barbecue! Want to stop stressing?
Who else wants all the cooling without all the cost?
This simple often overlooked appliance takes two hours to install, neutralizes the source of upstairs heat so you and your family can be cool and comfortable upstairs all summer while you save tons of money on your electric bill. You’ll feel cool and you feel good about the energy efficiency, pay a smaller electric bill and your family will thank you.
Unless you’ve spent time in your attic during the heat of the day you may not realize just how hot it gets up there. The fact is that attic temperatures 150 degrees during hot summer days. Ever wonder why it’s hard to get the upstairs cool or why your air-conditioning electric bills are so high? Your air conditioner has to work overtime to fight the effect of the…attic heat that backs up into your rooms.
Watch this video to see why I use the strongest screen in the business to stop birds and squirrels from getting into your Jet Fan and into your attic.
Don’t Let This Happen to You; All that Hay on Top of a Hot Motor
on a Beautiful Cedar Shake Roof. Talk About a Fire Hazard,
What was U.L. Thinking When they Listed the Attic Fan in this Video.
Who am I?
Hi, My name is Jeff Tideman, “JetFanMan” and I and my crews have installed about 15,000 attic fans since 1983. An attic fan is water-proof and goes up on your roof near the top where all the heat collects and goes on and off automatically with a special thermostat and blows all the super-hot attic air right out so your attic will never get up to 150 degrees again. It’s a great idea that’s here to stay because there is no other way to reliably and sufficiently ventilate your attic when the sun is roasting your house to death, but don’t run out and buy one until you read this…
Why I made the Jet Fan
In the mid 90’s I got real tired of going back to my customers’ homes and trying to explain to them how…
…that bone crushing sound coming from their new attic
fan that I just sold them was perfectly normal…
I mean, it was a joke! What could I do? Replace their loud motor with another loud motor? And to make matters worse, these cheap motors were taking twice the power they really needed and some didn’t even last one season. My customers and I got really sick and tired of it, so I had to start making my own attic fan. I spent two years looking for an American motor manufacturer that would produce proven high quality, long-lasting, efficient and quiet motors to my specifications. Finally, one customer pushed me over the edge, this guy had super-sensitive hearing, and it really bothered him and…
he was really starting to bother me…
I tried replacing his motor with other off-the-shelf motors, I tried balancing the blades, I tried different blades, I tried rubber isolation motor mounting to isolate vibration; nothing worked, so I stopped looking at the cost and when I replaced his motor with what would become our very own Jet Fan motor…
Suddenly, after trying everything else to make his fan quiet, he was instantly satisfied…
Peace and quiet at last; while it was more expensive, it was also more efficient and because it lasts about 15 years even if you never oil it so it’ll be cheaper in the long run. In fact, it will probably be running when your buyer’s inspector comes to check it when and if you finally sell. The Jet Fan housing lasts forever & super-quiet motor is twice as efficient and lasts 15 years not 5 years or even less like other cheap attic fans, some cheap motors didn’t even last one year!
Don’t worry they will keep sending you cheap replacement motors until you give up
But I didn’t stop there, the housings of the fans I was using were starting to be made of steel, while that was better than the cheap plastic housings that blew apart in the wind after baking in the sun, the steel would always start rusting after about 5 years, right about when my customers might start thinking about selling their home. Imagine trying to sell your home with this nasty, rusty, thing on your roof leaving streaks on your architectural shingles. I bought the tooling and found a large specialized metal fabrication shop in Chicago to make these beautiful caps of thick aluminum that never rust and a wider thicker more reliably water-proof aluminum flashing that fits in with your roofs shingles. Made to my specifications this metal is twice as thick as other attic fans metal so it will never blow off in strong winds. Ask me how I know that!
• save homeowners up to 30% on their cooling bills
• lengthen roof life by keeping shingles cooler
• add resale value to your home
According to studies by the Home Ventilation Institute homeowners may experience up to a 30% savings on air conditioning costs with a powered attic fan. ComEd indicates that air conditioners don’t have to run as often when it isn’t fighting a hot attic.
Jet Fans are built to survive high winds. They’re all metal and rust proof with stainless steel bolts that don’t leave rust streaks down your roof. The truly heavy-duty screen actually stops surprise attacks from birds or squirrels trying to get into your attic. All the Jet Fan components are American made. The Jet Fan electric motor is much quieter, has thermal protection for added safety, a capacitor for added life and efficiency, and oiling is optional.
Two independent safety systems not just one
- Thermal overload protector
An accurate snap action thermostat turns the Jet Fan on and off automatically and a firestat shuts the fan off in the event of a home fire. Higher quality parts are what make the Jet Fan better and maintenance free. Jet Fan’s limited lifetime warranty, includes the labor that we’ve done and is pro-rated for ten (10) years with a discount for homeowners for as long as they own their home if they ever need a replacement or replacement parts.”
You can buy the Jet Fan online no matter where you live, but if you live in the greater Chicago or Naperville, Illinois area we can install if for you too. We only make as many as we think we can sell in one season, so if you have a large order or just don’t want to put it off another year place your order right now.
The Jet Fan can also help when there is an unexplained humidity problem in the attic. Humidity can cause frost and ice to accumulate on the roof-framing members and eventually cause mold, mildew and rot to damage your home’s framing. An optional humidistat turns the fan on and off regardless of temperature whenever the relative humidity or dampness is too high in the attic.
Won’t This Suck Air Out of My House?
How? How will air pass through your ceiling? Yes, if you have gaping holes in your ceiling, you should fix those first – and make sure your attic has intake vents that will let cooler outside air come in from outside to replace the super-hot air that’s being taken out by the fan. If any of the self-appointed attic experts online would read the instructions that have come with all attic fans from the beginning, they would know that you have always had to have other vents and the fact is you probably already have enough vents to provide a way for cool air to come into your attic from outside to replace the super-hot air that’s being sucked out of your attic by the fan.
Jet Fan Installation Service has always checked a homes intake ventilation so the attic ventilation system is balanced and has maximum cross-flow through the attic from other static vents and you or your contractor should check that too.
So where will your cooler attic air come from?
From your eaves which should already have vents, (you know the over-hang or soffits around the sides of your roof), from other roof vents, or from louvered gable (attic wall) vents so it will never suck any of your air-conditioned air out of your house. Just read the instructions and add intake vents if you have to, it’ll be fine.
For efficiency, bigger is not necessarily better so…
What about Whole House Fans?
There are two types of attic fans, one cools only the attic and is properly called an attic fan, the other one is really a whole house fan and cools the whole house using outside air instead of air conditioning. Both fans can be used with satisfying results.
WHOLE HOUSE FANS
Many people use whole house fans as an alternative to air-conditioning. A whole house fan
is most effective when outside air temperatures are below 82ºF. It brings a cooling breeze in through the windows of the home and cools more efficiently than an air-conditioner (Click on picture to enlarge). Some times central air-conditioning is too expensive to install. When a house has been originally built with hot water radiator heat, installing central air-conditioning can be cost prohibitive because there is not any ductwork to distribute air throughout the house. Also, a whole house fan only uses about ¼ of the power that a central air-conditioning system does. Some people just don’t like air conditioning or may want the option of using outside air for cooling and ventilating their homes. Whole house fans draw massive amounts of air through a home. Moving air feels cooler than still air so high volumes of air are usually preferred.
One objection that some people have with whole house fans is the sound that is created when running. There are basically three types of noise created: air noise, motor vibration and shutter rattle. A well-engineered whole house fan will address all of these issues.
Generally speaking the more blades a fan blade has the quieter it will be, (five blades are better that four). Each blade does less work and thereby creates a smoother, even sound as opposed to fewer blades where the sound is choppy and irritating. One strategy for sizing a whole house fan for a house is to get the largest fan that will fit into the ceiling area of a hallway where a fan would typically be installed. Any size fan will be quieter when run at a slower speed; so by getting a large fan that has a low speed you can get less noise and still move a high volume of air because of the large size. Running on low speed also creates less wear and tear on the fan and saves electricity. Better whole house fans will have the whole fan isolated from the homes framing with foam strips or rubber mountings that will not transmit sound into the framing of the house. This keeps the motor hum from resounding through the framing and drywall of the home. It is better to have no direct mechanical connection to the house framing. Heavier fans are better because they rest on foam weather stripping held down only by their own weight.
Higher quality shutters will be heavier and have connecting rods connecting vanes of the shutter so they act together. This prevents one or more vanes from oscillating and possibly clapping shut and re-opening. Also, a better shutter will have an adjustable spring that will assist in opening the shutter as the fan sucks it open and cushion and slow the closing when the fan is shut off. This prevents the shutters from creating a loud thump when shutting when the fan is turned off. Some shutters even have a felt strip at the edge of each vane to seal in air when the fan is off and to silence the shutter when it closes.
Having a timer is also a good idea. A timer will let the fan run a pre set length of time so that you can set it before going to bed an have it shut off automatically when you feel it may get too cold at night. Thermostats are not a good idea because they could turn the fan on when no one is home and preparation hasn’t been made for it to come on. Windows must be opened first. Also, a fire in the fireplace could trigger it to come on unexpectedly with danger of sucking flames in from the fireplace. Obviously, some caution must be used when operating a whole house fan. The drill is really pretty simple: turn off heating and air-conditioning, open windows, no fires in fireplace and then turn the whole house fan on. Without opening windows first, some air could also be drawn down other vents or chimneys for heating and water heat, possibly blowing out pilot lights.
The amount of work required to install a whole house fan varies from house to house, but can generally be retrofitted into an existing house by a professional in about 8 to 16 man-hours. One major variable is the venting, if you plan on running the fan on high speed, (most people do) you need to make sure that there is at least enough exhaust venting for high speed setting. Fans are rated by cubic feet of air per minute or cfm. A good rule of thumb is to provide one square foot of net free venting area for every 750 cfm. Net free venting is the area after subtracting for louvers and screens. Generally the vents are roof vents, louvered wall vents or eave vents. Some roof vents and some eave vents have their respective net free venting areas stamped right on them. Ridge vents, depending on type, are not as good for providing the bulk of vent area needed although they do help slightly.
One strategy is to get an attic fan with a whole house fan. Special timer switches (DPST) are available and when installed they will turn on both fans to help expel some of the air being pushed into the attic. It is important to use only this type of switch for this application, because with a normal switch the attic fan thermostat would back feed and run the whole house fan even when the homeowner has not selected the on position for the whole house fan switch.
Better whole house fans have a welded frame. Effectively they are one-piece construction using heavy gauge steel for the venturi and motor and fan supports. This type of construction is better because it will never loosen up or begin to squeak. The only problem might occur if the installer was trying to fit the fan into a very small attic space; it may not fit through the opening when turned up on end before hitting the roof. Fans that can be disassembled can be fit through and then reassembled in the attic. One strategy for installing a welded frame fan into a smaller attic is to use a larger shutter than is required so the fan could be lifted into the attic in a horizontal or flat position and then supported by ledger strips around inside of opening. The larger shutter would then fill the larger opening that was made in order to lift the fan through in flat position.
ATTIC FANS – SOLAR & ELECTRIC
When the temperature climbs above 82ºF and you decide to use air conditioning, you can shut the windows and crank up the air knowing that the attic fan will save up to 30% on cooling costs by getting rid of trapped super hot air that tends to collect in attics and cause heat to back up into the home. (Click on picture to enlarge)
Attic temperatures can get up to 150ºF without an attic fan. Attic fans create a positive air-flow through your attic that does not rely on wind or require excessive passive venting. Excessive passive venting can cause excessive moisture infiltration in the form of snow or rain. The attic fan is normally mounted up on the roof of the home toward the back about two feet down from the peak. It goes on and off automatically with a thermostat, so it only runs when it is beneficial. The attic fan has a flashing that fits in with the shingles and is water-proof. Attic fans use less than 300 Watts, and offer these important advantages:
1. Lowers upstairs room temperatures by 10º.
2. Lengthens roof life by keeping shingles cooler.
3. With an optional humidistat, keep attics dry during winter months.
4. Saves up to 30% on air-conditioning costs.
The exact savings obtained depends on several factors like: the color of your roof, if the home is shaded, the amount of insulation you have, and the efficiency of your cooling system. Ideally, an attic fan installation will pay for itself within 3 years. A high quality attic fan is recommended. A heavy screen is required to stop pests. All metal construction is preferred as plastic fans do not hold up as well and over time will crack. A quality thermostat is also essential to save from climbing up into the attic for resetting. A firestat, which shuts the attic fan off for extremely high temperatures, is needed in case of a home fire. A permanently lubricated motor, insures quiet, maintenance-free operation.
There are 2 types of attic fans: roof top, and gable-end. Attic fans can be electrical or solar powered.
For more information: 1-800-JET-FAN-3 (800-538-3263)